Scotland’s Glorious Playground: Capital to Countryside

…personally invested in ensuring Scotland wrapped its arms around our family

Fresh off a direct flight from New York, we relished the efficiency of Edinburgh International Airport’s compact customs. After grabbing my bags and meeting my driver, we were off to Gleneagles Townhouse for the twenty-minute transfer. My camera made its debut just shy of ten minutes into the route when our driver-turned-tour-guide generously offered, “Would you like me to pull over so you can take a picture of where they filmed Harry Potter?” It was my first hint that the people I’d encounter for the following six days wouldn’t just be hospitable but personally invested in ensuring Scotland wrapped its arms around our family.

Located directly in the heart of Scotland’s capital city in St. Andrew Square, Gleneagles Townhouse made its debut in June 2022. As soon as you enter its nondescript entrance, you feel like you’re being invited into a secret club–and with that, you wouldn’t be wrong; the hotel is also home to a member’s club catering to the city’s creative set. Architecture fans will swoon at the revitalization of this former Bank of Scotland turned chic thirty-three key property. After a five-year renovation, it feels like a plush pink-meets-sea-foam-green paradise. From the moment I sipped on a cortado cozied up in The Spence’s velvet banquets beneath the jaw-dropping dome ceiling, I didn’t feel the pull to be anywhere but present.

In the name of shaking jetlag, we hit the ground running with a brief walk along St. Andrew Square for some hearty fare to fuel our arrival day explorations. After savoring Dishoom’s cult-favorite daal, we used the beautifully curated map provided by Gleneagles Townhouse as our guide to head across Waverly Bridge to check out the cobbled walkways of Victoria Street. Located in Grassmarket–a region named in the 14th century when it was grounds for busy agricultural trade–you’ll find stores offering Scottish-made wears. Your inevitable search for the perfect Harris Tweed item (or two!) is sure to take hold; consider a stop at Walker Slater for poshly tailored tweed suits, coats, and accessories across their dedicated men’s and women’s shops. Or, if you’re like me, fall head over heels for a blazer at Kiltane that will most certainly be coming home with you.

For dinner, it seemed like a foregone conclusion to amble into a pub for traditional fish and chips. While there is no shortage of options, we found ourselves tucked into a booth at The World’s End for a pint and some traditional fare. An ensuing nightcap was only natural after a day spent getting the lay of the land–and what better place to do it than back at home base? Gleneagles Townhouse’s rooftop outlet, Lamplighters, is exclusively open to hotel guests and members. The venue’s exclusivity lends to lively conversations as the natural light streams through its expansive windows overlooking the entire city.

After clinking cocktails, a story was shared that helped all the pieces of the renovation project come to life. Sara, Head of Membership Experience, divulged, “If the Townhouse were a person, she’d be the well-traveled and eclectic counterpart to her more traditional sibling [Gleneagles]. She’d be the one who went away to collect furniture at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul and sipped cocktails at a bohemian beach club in Ibiza before coming back home to Scotland to open Gleneagles Townhouse.”

There’s no better way to acclimate to a new timezone than waking up to work out. So while I was anticipating a moderately-sized weight room to match the hotel’s boutique size, this presumption overlooked that the facility also services its members. Instead, the tech-forward Gleneagles Townhouse gym is a hive of activity with a robust schedule of classes, personal training sessions, and perhaps even a sight of that Instagram-famous person you saw earlier in the morning while swiping Raya (though that last example is, of course, purely anecdotal).

In the capital city, all roads seem to lead to the Royal Mile, but ample history and cultural musings await beyond the main drag. We worked with the Gleneagles Townhouse team to book tickets to Edinburgh Castle to take in one of the U.K.’s most iconic attractions. When planning your castle visit, it’s recommended to block at least two hours for you to meander through the castle; our visit was on the abbreviated side, and it still took a fair bit of time to see The Great Hall, St Margaret’s Chapel, The Queen’s Embroideries, and the Honours of Scotland all housed in its complex. Alternatively, if art is more your scene, the National Portrait Gallery and Scottish National Gallery boast some of the world’s finest collections of art.

As the afternoon unfolded, we made time to go to the Royal Yacht Britannia located just two miles outside of town. If, like me, you’d watched The Crown season five and wondered, “what happened to the Royal Yacht Britannia?” then your answer lies here in Edinburgh. Our private tour here began with a red carpet arrival before being whisked through the vessel’s perfectly preserved quarters. We were in awe walking the exact halls where Her Majesty entertained royalty, dignitaries, and celebrities from around the world, and even more fascinated to see her humble twin bed in the State Apartments. We finished our deep dive into royal history with some afternoon tea accompanied by champagne and scones aboard, the experience surely marking a highlight of our time in Scotland’s capital city.

For our last night in town, dinner at The Spence was in order. Accompanied by the hotel’s dynamic General Manager, Alberto, we were able to get further insight into how this Condé Nast Traveler Hot List property is marrying the traditions of Gleneagles with a city twist. As Alberto opened up his camera roll to share photos of a live jazz performance held on property earlier in the week, its position as the “long-lost love child” as opposed to “sister hotel” rings true. In the restaurant–open to hotel guests, members, and outside diners alike–we dined on modern Scottish-inspired cuisine by Head Chef Jonny Wright paired with well-balanced cocktails. Nods to the cultural undercurrent around sober curiosity can be found both on their soft cocktail menu, which my sister and I particularly enjoyed. For dessert, don’t miss the unexpected piña colada baked Alaska for two. If you’re up for hard liquor, “The Scientist” cocktail featuring Glenfiddich twelve-year-old whisky will send you straight to Scottish dreamland.

Our third morning in Scotland began with soaking up our final meal at The Spence before our scheduled transfer to Gleneagles. With the arrival of a sleek Range Rover directly to the front steps of the Townhouse, there was a twinge of inevitable sadness that came with check out, but it was quickly overruled by a buzz of anticipation around the second leg of our trip. The scenic route took just over an hour as we swapped stories with our friendly chauffeur as we chatted through the history of Gleneagles’ three golf courses–one of the main draws of the destination for my dad and so many other avid golfers. In what seemed like simply the passage of a handful of stories swapped, we were winding through the estate’s palatial grounds for our arrival. With a warm wave from Helen to greet us at the front steps, we were ushered in and wholly embraced by the entire Gleneagles team.

One of the most special parts of arriving at the ninety-nine-year-old property is being welcomed by Richard, a twenty-three-year veteran of Gleneagles who has touched nearly every aspect of the guest experience since starting on the food and beverage side of things. Today, his role as Lobby Host is to manage the flurry of guest activity in the lobby–and maybe even arrange for a few adult beverages while guests get settled in. We were fortunate enough to do a walk-through with him where we learned more about how the grounds have played host to royalty and esteemed world leaders, particularly the 2005 G8 Summit. “Out here is where I served tea and coffee for Mr. Bush and Mr. Blair,” he shared, pointing to the grass just outside The Strathern. With walls lined with photos showcasing the legends like actor Sir Sean Connery and Wimbledon champion Andy Murray, in addition to a slew of golf pros, you can practically feel the heartbeat of the hotel pulsating through its finery.

If you haven’t already coordinated it with your agent, inquire with the Playground Planners to rent wellies and a Barbour jacket.

After settling in your suite–for families, we recommend the Two-Bedroom Whisky Suites to really get space to spread out–head down to chat with the Playground Planners. While your SmartFlyer advisor will happily pre-book your activities prior to arrival to ensure a completely custom itinerary, the nature of travel is that things often change (whether because of Scotland’s temperamental weather or your mood). Fine-tune any tee times, archery lessons, picnics, and more based on what you’re hungry to explore. If you haven’t already coordinated it with your agent, inquire with the Playground Planners to rent wellies and a Barbour jacket. On your way back through The Retail Arcade, dip into the various boutiques for clothing, homewares, and beauty products from brands like Dr. Barbara Sturm.

For dinner, a reservation at the recently renovated restaurant, The Birnam, will have you questioning if you’re in Italy or indeed, the Scottish countryside. We found ourselves enraptured by the fresh seafood pasta and pesto-marinated olives that tasted so briney and delicious, they may as well have been candy. Our dessert–an Amalfi lemon sorbet downed with limoncello–stole the show, though. If you’re up for another drink, The Century Bar beacons.

We woke up refreshed and ready for a full day of activities on our first full morning at Gleneagles. But first, it was down to breakfast in The Strathearn where Richard’s suggestion to request a table in the Orangery found us basking in the bright morning light. It’s impossible not to be in awe here amongst the whirr of a perfectly executed breakfast service. The hardest decision of the day was whether to indulge in Nutella pancakes off the made-to-order menu, or peruse the buffet featuring delicacies like cured Scottish salmon, individually fired shakshuka, an entire wall of fresh-squeezed juices, and a bloody mary bar to boot. Once we were all fueled up, it was time to head over to the links for a tee time.

Golf at Gleneagles remains a top draw for avid golfers hailing from around the world. In our case, my dad and sister were keen to experience The Queen’s Course–considered one of the more approachable of the three at Glen–and I was thrilled to be their cheerleader. Had I wanted to try and get up to speed, I could have tried my hand at the Wee Course (a small 9-hole course consisting mainly of Par 3’s), I opted to stay where my talent is on par: with a camera in hand. As recent host to The Ryder and Solheim Cups, Gleneagles’ reputation as a sportsman’s (or woman’s!) paradise is well earned. Alternative to the par-68 Queen’s Course, are the King’s Course, a Braid-designed masterpiece, and the Nicklaus-designed PGA Centenary Course.

For those like myself who aren’t suited to be on the golf course, there is no shortage of activities on the pursuits menu. One of the most enchanting parts of a stay at Gleneagles is that their team thinks outside of the box when it comes to designing activities. In collaboration with Yuri, Head of Adventure, guests can experience a specially curated outing. In our case, this was a hike that culminated in the most magical pondside picnic in a glass dome–but I’m getting ahead of myself. To kick off this immersion the Scottish countryside of our ancestral origin, we left the property for a brief drive where we set out on a refreshing walk along the ridge. This was the moment where it all coalesced: the sun even endeavored to peek through the sky as we walked alongside Yuri, soaking up stories of his nearly two decades spent being a safari guide and content creator across Africa before returning to his motherland of Scotland.

Once we were back on property, we had a refreshing swim down at the pool. In between conversations recapping how memorable our afternoon was, we put on our finery for a dinner back at “The Strath” as the esteemed outlet is lovingly called by the Gleneagles team. While the setting is steeped in tradition, it doesn’t take long to realize that the upscale venue isn’t stuck in the past: during our first course, the pianist launched into a rendition of “Toxic” as boisterous incentive group tables declared multiple rounds of “cheers” celebrating their successes. An evening here is split into three courses, a much-abbreviated experience from the nearby two-Michelin-starred Andre Fairlie which serves a far more intense series of courses during its limited covers each evening. For a nightcap, a dip into American Bar was inevitable.

For our last full day at Gleneagles, we opted for one final dive into what the team does here best: activities. Following breakfast, we meandered to the Falconry School for an introduction to the ancient sport with the help of the affable Keenan, a Falconry Instructor who’s been on property for several years. While the entire team within the adventure department demonstrates a connection to the work they do, it was Keenan’s passion for his role–both with the gundogs and the extensive collection of birds–that made our time so special. He walked us through a Gundog course before introducing us to the zaniest of their bunch of thirteen highly-trained dogs, Callie. She zipped around us at such lightning speed that none of us could help but burst into full-belly laughs, the kind that reminds you what going on vacation is meant to do: spark joy through the simple moments.

For lunch, we meandered back to The Garden Cafe, a more casual eatery on property offering salads, freshly baked sweet treats, and a variety of caffeinated beverages. In the words of Georgios, Head of Coffee, “My favorite coffee is coffee made well.” That ethos is very much embodied with each cup served here, whether you order an Italian espresso or Costa Rican-farmed cold brew. Our mid-day meal fueled us up for our final adventure of the day which began just a short drive away at the Shooting and Fishing School. As the daughter of a hunter who’s never partook in her life, I was skeptical about how much I’d enjoy the lesson, but the second we got set up with our instructor, John, I was put at ease. We shot clay pigeons before transitioning over to some archery to round out the afternoon with a friendly family competition. Spoiler: my dad won.

Dinner on our final evening had us weaving back over to the golf course. We check in for our reservation at The Dormy, overlooking the King’s and Queen’s championship courses. Between shared servings of delicious Indian curries and crispy tandoori breads, we went around the table to recant some of our personal highlights of the trip. For me, it was our hike and surprise-filled picnic with Ashley, our partner at Gleneagles who makes all the magic happen for SmartFlyer clients. For my sister, the highlight was her round of golf on such an esteemed course. For my dad, the highlight was simply our time together as a family, making lifelong memories.

We arose on our final morning in Scotland to a twinge of melancholy that we were set to depart from Scotland. Knowing we had a spa treatment on the books directly after our room service breakfast was delivered softened the blow. The Resident Spa offers guests a restorative space for relaxation and rejuvenation. Opt for a Highland Healer massage or perhaps a facial featuring either Tata Harper or Dr. Barbara Sturm products. If like us, you want to claim a piece of Gleneagles to enjoy back at home, swing through The Retail Arcade to peruse artisanal offerings, including everything down to the jam served on property. Depart the property knowing that it isn’t goodbye, but certainly a “see you soon.”