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When it comes to skiing the Alps, consulting with an expert who can help pair you with the best resorts and restaurants based on your needs will surely take your European ski trip to new heights.
Carina Otero is the founder of She is Not Lost, an online community that inspires and celebrates female travelers. While she didn’t grow up skiing, her love for solo travel morphed into a passion for solo skiing as an adult; in recent years, she has taken solo ski trips all over the world, including thirty-six stations and six countries in Europe. Each winter, she relocates to the mountains for at least a month-long stint to further hone her expertise, and in our latest destination dive, she’s taking us across France, Italy, Switzerland, and Austria to share her advice on how to ski the Alps like a pro (even if you’ll be sticking to the blues while others in your crew peel off to the blacks!).
Ikon and Epic Ski Passes for Skiing the Alps
Ikon Passes are easily accepted without blackout dates for five days of skiing (Ikon Base Pass or Ikon Base Plus Pass) or seven days of skiing (Ikon Pass) at the following European destinations included in this guide: Chamonix, Cortina, Zermatt, St. Moritz, and Kitzbuhel. Epic Pass acceptance at “partner resorts” is subject to a few more conditions depending on the destination. For more details, consider chatting with your SmartFlyer travel advisor to learn about using your Epic Pass in the following destinations included in this guide: Courchevel,Méribel, Verbier, Crans Montana, and Lech.
Val d’Isère has it all and tops my list as an all-time favorite. This quintessentially French destination feels like a true hideaway and is about as deep into the French Alps as it gets, with a picturesque approach by car offering first impressions straight out of a James Bond film. Val d’Isère is about an hour from the nearest train station (Bourg St Maurice) and just under four hours from the nearest major airport (Geneva); though, if you’re seeking a sleeker arrival experience, helicopter transfers are always an option that can be arranged by your SmartFlyer travel advisor. The journey to Val d’Isère is certainly worth it, not just for the seemingly endless terrain for all levels of skiers, but also for all the finest in dining, shopping, and accommodations the destination has to offer.
Where to Stay in Val d’Isère
…even beginner skiers can have a “big mountain” experience complete with views in every direction. It’s truly everything from family-friendly, beginner-friendly, expert-friendly, and even non-skier-friendly.
Airelles, Val d’Isère serves as a landmark in the center of town, while also offering ski-in/out access to a total of 300km of piste across Val d’Isère and neighboring Tignes. What I find most remarkable and sets Val d’Isère apart from other ski stations in the Alps is that it offers a considerable amount of easy terrain at higher altitudes, so even beginner skiers can have a “big mountain” experience complete with views in every direction. It’s truly everything from family-friendly, beginner-friendly, expert-friendly, and even non-skier-friendly. Though Val d’Isère is tucked away deep in the French Alps, its town has all modern conveniences and also offers unique experiences. For those who can’t get enough of the altitude, Le Refuge de Solaise is a chalet-style hotel situated at the top of Val d’Isère and is accessible only by gondola. Conveniently, Airelles and Le Refuge de Solaise are each home to two of Val d’Isère’s dining hot-spots: Le Piaf and Le Refuge, respectively. The energy in Val d’Isère is lively, so guests who may prefer a more discreet, exclusive experience just outside the heart of the town should consider a private chalet by La Mourra.
Chamonix, France
A playground for adventurous skiers
One of Chamonix’s greatest draws is its convenience—both for new and intermediate skiers who simply want quick access to the Alps (it’s only an hour away from Geneva), and also for expert skiers in search of legendary, lift-served, off-piste terrain. Several ski stations are spread throughout the Chamonix Valley and it takes about thirty minutes to drive from one end to the other, each offering varying terrain. Les Houches and Vallorcine (located on opposite ends of the valley) would be the most beginner and family-friendly ski areas, while Grand Montets caters to intermediate and expert skiers. The gondolas originating in Chamonix town serve Brévent-Flégère ski areas, which offer everything from beginner to expert terrain. The Aiguille du Midi gondola whisks expert skiers and private guides up to ski the Vallée Blanche, a legendary and lengthy off-piste descent. The Aiguille du Midi gondola also takes non-skiers to visit its observation deck for unmatched views directly in front of Mont Blanc.
Where to Stay in Chamonix
Chamonix town is lively both day and night, so if you’re looking for a relaxing, luxe ski holiday, a private chalet may be best. Ski-in/out is non-existent in Chamonix’s central town due to the relatively low altitude of the base of the valley, so the most convenient location for accommodations would be near the loading zones for the Brévent or Flégère gondolas. Though limited, some ski-in/out accommodations can be found outside the center of town, and would offer access to Les Houches, Vallorcine, or Grand Montets ski areas.
Courchevel, France
If you love the south of France in the summer, you’ll love Courchevel in the winter. The theme of Courchevel seems to be “How can we top this?” and every restaurant, every boutique, and every hotel property has an answer.
Likely the most well-known destination in the Alps, Courchevel needs little introduction. But it’s for good reason– Courchevel is a wintry playground for snow bunnies and experienced skiers alike, and the extensive offering of the absolute finest in hospitality draws clients from all over the world. Courchevel’s allure of exclusivity comes partly from its geography; its sunny slopes are tucked away on the northeast edge of the world’s largest ski area Les Trois Vallées, thus providing access and privilege at the same time. If you love the south of France in the summer, you’ll love Courchevel in the winter. The theme of Courchevel seems to be “How can we top this?” and every restaurant, every boutique, and every hotel property has an answer. It’s a world where anything feels possible, and the impressive elevation only adds to the sensation that you’re on top of it.
Where to Stay in Courchevel
Narrowing down the options of where to stay in Courchevel is no easy task, so be sure to ask your SmartFlyer travel advisor for expert guidance on exclusive offerings. Courchevel’s villages are tiered at varying altitudes (1300m, 1550m, 1650m, and 1850m). The highest concentration of top in-town properties, dining establishments, shopping, and nightlife tend to be located at the highest altitude: Courchevel 1850. Within Courchevel 1850, you’ll find properties from the world’s best hotel collections: L’Apogee by Oetker Collection, Aman Le Melezin, Cheval Blanc Courchevel, and Les Airelles. The slopes above and around Courchevel 1850 are also dotted with festive spots for lunch and après ski, with Cap Horn and La Soucoupe being a few favorites. Your SmartFlyer advisor will be happy to handle requests for restaurant reservations, which are necessary in this lively destination.
Méribel, France
The heart of the world’s largest ski area
Méribel sits at the center of Les Trois Vallées and offers convenient daytime access on skis to Courchevel, Val Thorens, Les Menuires, and Saint Martin de Belleville. Its prime location allows it to offer the best of all three worlds (valleys) for families, couples, or individuals alike. Ski-in and out of Le Coucou Méribel, a peaceful and tucked-away sanctuary that’s situated in the true heart of the expansive ski resort. Méribel’s gondolas and chairlifts serve every direction of the valley, allowing skiers to enjoy both sunny and shady slopes, depending on conditions. For those looking for a lively scene and nightlife, neighboring Courchevel can be accessed by ski during the day, or by car at night—but while getting there is easy, do remember that reservations for restaurants should be made well in advance, so, be sure to consult with your SmartFlyer travel advisor to handle all the finer details of your stay!
Skiing the Alps: Italy
Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy
All eyes on the 2026 Winter Olympics
Known as the “pearl of the Dolomites,” the village of Cortina is preciously set in a valley surrounded by jagged mountain peaks.
As the site of the upcoming 2026 Winter Olympics, Cortina d’Ampezzo is already buzzing with excitement. Though the destination certainly attracts the world’s top skiers, the expansive terrain welcomes all levels including families and those who are just learning. The ski areas around Cortina also feature a number of scenic slope-side restaurants and cafes, so skiers can have a dose of the dolce far niente in between exhilarating runs. The town of Cortina was only made internationally famous by the 1956 Winter Olympics, but it has maintained a tradition of elegance and sophistication for more than a century. Known as the “pearl of the Dolomites,” the village of Cortina is preciously set in a valley surrounded by jagged mountain peaks.
Where to Stay in Cortina
While views of the mountains are stunning from any direction, they’re best enjoyed from the comfort of Hotel de Len– a welcoming property whose recent renovation highlights natural materials that inspire wellbeing. The beautiful de Len Spa brings the outside in with its floor-to-ceiling windows and is the perfect place to recharge after a day on the slopes, but guests looking for something more exclusive can reserve the 5 Senses Spa by Night experience for a private dinner and spa treatment. And excitement in Cortina isn’t just buzzing because of the upcoming Olympics– if you’re looking ahead to 2025 and beyond, consider being one of the first to experience brand new properties slated to open: Aman Rosa Alpina and Mandarin Oriental Cristallo.
Le Breuil (Breuil-Cervinia), Italy
Italy’s highest ski resort
Ambitious and experienced skiers can venture over to the Swiss side to ski Zermatt, as long as weather and conditions permit, though there is plenty to keep one occupied in the Italian town of Le Breuil.
You’ve surely heard of the Matterhorn, but are you familiar with Cervino? Trick question. It’s the same mountain, just by its Italian name! The ski area of Le Breuil (formerly Breuil-Cervinia) is a paradise for beginner, intermediate, and advanced skiers who simply love the Italian way of life and are in search of a winter holiday marked by lovely long and wide pistes, pausing only for espresso and classic Italian fare. Ambitious and experienced skiers can venture over to the Swiss side to ski Zermatt, as long as weather and conditions permit, though there is plenty to keep one occupied in the Italian town of Le Breuil. The five-star properties Hotel Hermitage and Valtur Cervinia Cristallo are each nestled above the quaint village and are equipped with relaxing spas and options for fine dining. Due to the geography of the town, It’s typical for hotels in Le Breuil to offer shuttle services to the main gondola, as ski-in/out access is best suited for advanced skiers who are comfortable on red pistes.
Courmayeur, Italy
A cozy hideaway at the foot of Monte Bianco (the Italian side of Mont Blanc)
For those seeking a more leisurely ski holiday, Courmayeur’s varied terrain has something for all levels and families.
While it’s near Chamonix (a 30-minute tunnel beneath the Mont Blanc Massif connects the two towns), Courmayeur feels a world apart. Relatively quiet compared to its French counterpart, Courmayeur caters to the chic set looking for a wintry mountain retreat with the warmth of Italian hospitality. For those seeking a more leisurely ski holiday, Courmayeur’s varied terrain has something for all levels and families. While some expert skiers choose to access the famed off-piste Vallée Blanche from Italy’s Courmayeur, note that the descent leads into Chamonix on the French side. If you’re hoping to shop while on holiday in Courmayeur, expect to find more independent boutiques and fewer high-street retailers along its quaint streets.
Where to Stay in Courmayeur
Centrally located, Le Massif Courmayeur is situated just across from the ski station’s main gondola, and the southeast-facing slopes allow skiers to soak up the sunshine beneath Monte Bianco’s peak. Not to be missed is the Skyway Monte Bianco, a set of cable cars that takes non-skiers and expert skiers alike (along with their private guides) up to the observation deck in Aiguille du Midi in France.
Skiing the Alps: Switzerland
Zermatt, Switzerland
An icon in the Swiss Alps
There are some areas that welcome beginner skiers and families, but Zermatt truly caters to intermediate and advanced skiers in search of high altitude and long descents.
Zermatt is notoriously a bit of a challenge to get to, but the destination is surely worth the journey. The car-free village can always be reached by train, but guests who prefer an adrenaline rush that parallels the experience of skiing at Zermatt can opt for a helicopter transfer into town. There are some areas that welcome beginner skiers and families, but Zermatt truly caters to intermediate and advanced skiers in search of high altitude and long descents. Observation decks located throughout the ski area and neighboring summits also welcome non-skiers to take in iconic views of the famed peak, the Matterhorn. Slope-side restaurants perfect for taking a break between ski runs include Alphitta and Restaurant Zum See, and top options in town for dinner include Restaurant Chez Max Julen and Schäferstube.
Where to stay in Zermatt
Zermatt’s pedestrian-only streets further add to its storybook charm, and a picturesque backdrop of the towering Matterhorn makes any casual stroll through the town unforgettable. The car-free village is small and walkable, though well-connected with a bus system, taxi carts, and hotel shuttles. While the village of Zermatt inspires a feeling of traveling back in time, its town center boasts an impressive array of retailers, outfitters, and designer shops. Mont Cervin Palace remains a beloved favorite for its location in the heart of town — meaning some accommodations offer views of the stunning Matterhorn— met by traditional Swiss hospitality. The Omnia is a perfect choice for guests who prefer modern luxuries and impeccable design, and the five-star Cervo Mountain Resort offers a laid-back feel along with some of the most beautiful views in town; for advanced skiers, Cervo Mountain Resort is a ski-in property with direct access to the Sunnegga funicular. Grand Hotel Zermatterhof suits perfectly for those seeking a focus on sustainability combined with a boutique feel.
St. Moritz
Top of the world, in every way: for when you want to see and be seen
Iconic properties exude old-world charm, honoring a legacy that only becomes more refined season after season.
Known as the birthplace of winter tourism, St. Moritz has pioneered the luxury ski experience. Iconic properties exude old-world charm, honoring a legacy that only becomes more refined season after season. Visitors of St. Moritz can expect the finest in accommodations, service, dining, and shopping. Restaurant reservations are necessary and should be made well in advance, for both lunch and dinner with the assistance of your SmartFlyer travel advisor. The experience of dining slope-side at Langosteria or après at Paradiso is unmatched, and favorite restaurants in the town center include Chesa Veglia, Dal Mulin, and Matsuhisa.
Where to stay in St. Moritz
Just outside the center of town, Suvretta House is the top choice for a quintessential St. Moritz experience and ski-in/out access with a private ski lift. Guests who prefer to remain closer to the center of town and its premium shopping can choose Badrutt’s Palace or Kulm Hotel, while those who long for impressive Engadine views would love Carlton Hotel. For skiers looking to broaden their horizons beyond the domains of Corviglia and Corvatsch, St. Moritz is a leading destination for heli-skiing– because true luxury is privacy, untouched powder, and avoiding lift lines.
Zermatt and St. Moritz Combo
For the most passionate skiers looking for the experience of a lifetime, Zermatt and St. Moritz are connected by an 8-hour train ride on the famed Glacier Express, where riders are treated to panoramic views of Switzerland’s landscape and unforgettable service aboard its Excellence Class.
Verbier, Switzerland
A modern take on long-standing traditions
While it’s still possible to find classic charm in heritage establishments around town, Verbier has a modern and young feel that makes it a great destination for adventurous skiers seeking an action-packed winter holiday. The terrain is expansive across the 4 Vallées, so those set on seeing everything the ski area has to offer should plan for multiple days of skiing. Skiers comfortable on red pistes, or anyone willing to take a short hike up the mountain, should make a reservation for lunch at Chez Dany for an unforgettable meal at a local institution. The options for shopping in town may be as expansive as the ski area’s terrain, and shoppers can find everything from high street retailers to the latest in mountaineering equipment.
Where to stay in Verbier
The W Verbier is a favorite choice for all types of travelers and is located in the center of town directly across from the main gondola; your SmartFlyer travel advisor will always recommend getting a room with a terrace facing down the mountain for optimal natural sunlight. And while the W Spa is the perfect place to unwind after a day on the mountain, those who prefer to keep their energy levels high can take part in the town’s impressive après and nightlife scene. We also love Experimental Chalet, Verbier for a truly boutique experience in one of its thirty-nine rooms and suites, or The Lodge, Verbier, Sir Richard Branson’s mountain retreat with just nine bedrooms and suites for an even cozier stay.
Crans-Montana, Switzerland
A year-round destination that shines its brightest in winter
Epic Pass holders have unlimited access to ski Crans Montana, making an extended stay in the Swiss village especially appealing.
While more and more Americans are becoming tempted by the allure of the Alps, no ski destination may be more welcoming than Crans Montana, which was recently acquired by Vail Resorts. In fact– Epic Pass holders have unlimited access to ski Crans Montana, making an extended stay in the Swiss village especially appealing. In addition to its varied terrain that welcomes beginners and advanced skiers alike, the ski area is most widely known for its spectacular views of the Alps’ biggest icons, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and beyond.
Where to stay in Crans-Montana
The Six Senses Crans Montana is an alpine paradise– it has an ideal location in town and direct ski-in/out access to the slopes, in addition to the finest amenities that Six Senses are known to offer. Just steps away from the resort is the town’s high-street shopping district, and all modern conveniences can be found nearby with the surrounding natural landscape providing a stunning backdrop.
Gstaad, Switzerland
Where quaint, classical elegance reigns supreme
…Gstaad remains chic, elegant, and refined, and has a reputation for being family-friendly with a lot of beginner terrain.
The majority of the ski areas around Gstaad exist below 1700-1800m while the bases of these mountains where the villages and towns are located are at around 1000m. For comparison, Verbier’s village sits at 1500m and most of the ski area is above 2000m altitude, so Gstaad’s lower altitude is something to consider off the bat when it comes to managing expectations with snowfall (but more on that later!). However, when there is snow, Gstaad remains chic, elegant, and refined, and has a reputation for being family-friendly with a lot of beginner terrain. The Alpina Gstaad remains a top contender for where to stay when you’re looking for an Alpine hideaway predicated on privacy, personalized service, and a world-class art collection.
Skiing the Alps: Austria
Lech, Austria
Excellence and elegance in Austria’s largest ski area
Lech is a picturesque, chic, and sophisticated town in Arlberg, Austria’s largest ski area. While Lech tends to be known as the destination’s most refined town, Ski Arlberg is well-connected so it’s easy to access any level of terrain, or any type of ambiance for every kind of traveler. Lech is central to Oberlech and Zürs ski areas (and connected by heated chairlifts!) and is not far from the neighboring towns of St. Anton, St. Christoph, and Stuben, which are more known for their après and party scenes in addition to world-class skiing.
Where to stay in Lech
The region’s top hotels all seem to be found in the village of Lech, and favorites for exceptional stays and ski-in/out access include Hotel Almhof Schneider, Kristiania Lech, and Aurelio Hotel & Chalet. Each of these family-run properties are highly sought-after and can only accommodate a handful of guests at a time to maintain exclusivity and privacy, so it’s best to put requests in with your SmartFlyer travel advisor sooner rather than later.
Kitzbuhel, Austria
A memorable ski holiday on legendary slopes
The destination is wonderful for families and a number of properties offer convenient access to the slopes on either side of the valley.
One of Austria’s top ski destinations is also its most easily accessible from a major airport– Kitzbuhel is less than two hours from Munich, but its small-town charm embraces tradition and its stunning surroundings. As the site of one of the most famous Alpine Ski World Cup races, Kitzbuhel maintains a vibrant energy all season long. The destination is wonderful for families and a number of properties offer convenient access to the slopes on either side of the valley. Hotel Tennerhof is a top choice for visitors of Kitzbuhel, while those looking for more privacy can opt for a stay in the Relais & Chateaux property’s Chalet Suites or Apartments. Kitzbuhel’s shopping scene offers a unique opportunity to discover renowned ski-wear brands, directly in their birthplace: Frauenschuh, Toni Sailer, and Sportalm.
How to Plan to Ski the Alps in Today’s Climate
It’s undeniable that our changing climate has impacted seasonality in the mountains, particularly the Alps. Unpredictable and extreme weather patterns can sometimes produce too little snow, and at other times produce too much snow. To minimize the effects of climate change further complicating ski trip planning, the strategies I’ve adapted below can help.
Seek higher ground: The higher the altitude (of both the accommodation, and the ski station’s summit), the more likely conditions will be better for skiing.
Stay central: If staying in a resort that’s located between a number of stations, guests can have the ability to choose to ski whichever has the best conditions in the moment.
Be realistic: Considering today’s climate extremes, “ski-in/ski-out” isn’t necessarily guaranteed, and is always weather-dependent.
Have an open mind: Gondola and chairlift operations are also weather-dependent. For example, conditions could look perfect, but if winds are too strong to operate the lifts, areas of a ski station could remain closed. Destinations with other activities such as spas, shopping, or snowmobiling can keep guests entertained regardless of conditions.
Be prepared: Having the right gear can make the difference between having an ‘okay’ ski holiday or having a wonderful ski holiday. Goggles with interchangeable or photochromic lenses can help skiers ski safely in a variety of conditions, and versatile layers can be added or removed if temperatures fluctuate.
Carina Otero
