There’s something eternal about Portofino.

…on the Ligurian Riviera, life slows down just enough to remind you what beauty really is. 

Maybe it’s the light, bouncing off pastel facades and bobbing yachts in the harbor. Or perhaps it’s the way the air smells faintly of lemon trees and sea salt. Or even better, maybe it’s the feeling that here, on the Ligurian Riviera, life slows down just enough to remind you what beauty really is. 

We just returned from the much-anticipated unveiling of Belmond’s restoration of Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino, and can confirm: Portofino is more captivating than ever. Tucked between the luciously green hills and the glittering Mediterranean, this timeless fishing village turned Riviera icon is experiencing a renaissance. The return of Splendido marks more than a renovation—it’s a revival of the glamorous spirit that first drew artists, writers, and movie stars here decades ago. 

With a trio of Belmond properties—including the freshly opened Villa Beatrice and harbourside Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino—Portofino invites you to experience Italian elegance at its most refined. Come for the views. Stay for the feeling of solace you won’t quite be able to put into words.

Where to Stay

Villa Beatrice: Private Riviera Splendor

…meticulously restored by designer Martin Brudnizki into a sanctuary that balances heritage with modernity.

Perched above the Bay of Paraggi, Villa Beatrice is the pinnacle of privacy and coastal elegance. Originally built in 1912 by renowned Italian architect Gino Coppedè, this four-bedroom villa—plus a separate guest cottage—has been meticulously restored by designer Martin Brudnizki into a sanctuary that balances heritage with modernity. Expect grand archways, Milanese textiles, Ligurian restraint, and the kind of views that stop conversation mid-sentence. 

Ideal for families or close-knit groups, the villa accommodates up to twelve guests and comes with every imaginable indulgence: a dedicated butler, private chef, panoramic rooftop, sea-view pool, and direct access to the glittering water via private boat. There’s even an outdoor fitness area and on-demand spa treatments. It’s Portofino’s most exclusive address—best booked for a week and, in turn, savored slowly.

Splendido: A Riviera Icon, Reimagined

Set high in the hills and surrounded by terraced gardens and wisteria-draped balconies, Splendido, A Belmond Hotel is Portofino’s beating heart. Once a 16th-century monastery, the property has long been a magnet for the stylish and storied. Its latest chapter—unveiled in summer 2025—restores its historic soul while introducing fresh layers of Italian elegance, including the country’s first permanent Dior Spa. 

The rooms and suites echo the Ligurian coastline with sun-washed palettes and bespoke details. Beyond the walls, you’ll find panoramic pools, tennis courts, and the iconic La Terrazza restaurant, where the rosé flows late into golden hour. This is a hotel where every moment feels cinematic—right down to the boat waiting in the harbor to whisk you away.

Splendido Mare: Harbourfront Sophistication

Located directly on Portofino’s famous Piazzetta, Splendido Mare, A Belmond Hotel is an intimate fourteen-room guesthouse that captures the romance of Riviera life at sea level. A favorite among creatives and couples, the property blends nautical design with cinematic flair, most notably in the Ava Gardner Suite, which spans the entire top floor with wraparound views of the harbor. 

Guests enjoy access to all the amenities of sister hotel Splendido, including the spa and pool, but the real luxury here is proximity. Wake up to the sounds of the sea, step downstairs for an espresso at DaV Mare, and spend the day alternating between boat rides, boutique browsing, and long lunches in the sun.

Where to Eat and Drink

DaV Mare

The culinary crown jewel of the Piazzetta, DaV Mare brings together Belmond’s signature service with the gastronomic artistry of the Cerea family—famed for their three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio. Here, Ligurian seafood and delicate pastas take center stage, complemented by a wine list that spans the Italian peninsula. Dine beneath the stars, linger over dessert, and watch the harbor twinkle to life. 

Gelateria San Giorgio

Celebrating over a century of sweet perfection, Gelateria San Giorgio is a must-stop for anyone with a taste for tradition. Their signature Paciugo—a decadent sundae layered with fresh berries, sour cherries, and gelato made from Mount Portofino lemons—is as photogenic as it is addictive.

Splendido Grill

Tucked beside Splendido’s pool and redesigned by Italian landscape artist Marco Bay, this alfresco spot channels the spirit of summer. The menu is an ode to Italian simplicity—grilled seafood, seasonal vegetables, expertly made pasta—and the setting, with its marble terrace and views of the bay, is pure Mediterranean magic. 

La Terrazza

Few restaurants capture the essence of la dolce vita quite like La Terrazza. Whether you’re seated beneath bougainvillea at lunch or wrapped in a pashmina at dusk, every meal here feels like an occasion. Chef Corrado Corti’s menus are inspired by the seasons and sourced locally, with standout dishes that reinterpret Ligurian classics with sophistication.

What to Do in Portofino

High above the bay, nestled within the protected Mount Portofino, you’ll find a quietly revolutionary escape: La Portofinese, a working eco-farm dedicated to sustainability and slow living. Wander among olive groves, vineyards, and beehives before settling in for a panoramic picnic of Ligurian delicacies—homemade focaccia, farm-fresh cheeses, and honey gathered just a few steps from where you sit. Rustic never felt so refined. 

Charter Belmond’s Gozzo Boat

There are boat rides—and then there’s the gozzo. Charter Belmond’s traditional gozzo boat for a private cruise along the dramatic Portofino coastline. Choose from curated DaV Mare or Veuve Clicquot picnic baskets and drop anchor in a secluded cove for an alfresco lunch with no one else in sight. Whether it’s a golden hour glide or a mid-morning swim stop, this is Riviera living at its most cinematic.

Take a Nature Walk to Castello Brown

Begin at the harbor, then make your way up the steps to the Church of San Giorgio and onward to Castello Brown—a former British consul’s residence-turned-museum with spectacular views of the bay. For those wanting to stretch their legs further, the Parco Regionale di Portofino offers trails that wind through pine forests and wildflower meadows, leading to unexpected sea views and peaceful solitude. 

Wine Tasting with a View

Take the scenic route—by e-bike or foot—along the coast to La Portofinese vineyard, the only one of its kind with unobstructed views of the Ligurian Sea. Once you arrive, sip local white wines as the sunlight dances across the water. It’s as transportive as it is terroir-driven. 

Spend a Day at Bagni Fiore Beach

Tucked into the bay of Paraggi, Bagni Fiore is one of the most exclusive stretches of sand on the Riviera. Think striped loungers, crystal-clear water, and Belmond-arranged access that ensures your day unfolds seamlessly. This isn’t a beach day—it’s a scene. 

Unwind at the Dior Spa 

Set within the newly restored Splendido, the Dior Spa is Italy’s first permanent outpost from the maison—and it doesn’t disappoint. Treatments are inspired by the region, using botanicals from the Riviera and products straight from Dior’s skincare ateliers. Book a massage after a morning hike, or simply claim your chaise on the spa terrace and let the view do the work.

Explore the Cinque Terre

Just a short journey from Portofino lies one of Italy’s most iconic regions: Cinque Terre, a string of five storybook villages clinging to the cliffs of the Ligurian coast. Whether you explore by train, footpath, or private boat, the experience is unforgettable. Each town offers its own flavor—vineyards, pastel houses, rocky beaches, and winding alleys that feel like stepping into a postcard. 

Board the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

In June 2025, Portofino got a touch of railway romance: the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express now travels from Paris to Splendido, offering a rare opportunity to arrive in style. The journey winds through the French and Italian Rivieras, culminating in a special dinner at La Terrazza curated by Chef Corrado Corti—each course reflecting the landscapes seen from your window. It’s the kind of experience that doesn’t just belong in a travel guide—it belongs in a novel.

Portofino Pairings: Where to Go Before or After

• Milan: For fashion, design, and an easy train connection 

• Saint-Tropez: Combine coastal chic via yacht or private transfer from Nice

• Florence: Pair with Tuscany for a cultural reset (bonus points if you take the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express) 

Until Next Time, Portofino 

Portofino isn’t a place you check off—it’s a feeling you carry. A spritz at sunset, the scent of lemon trees, the hush of the harbor at night. It lingers long after your bags are packed and your boat has pulled away. Whether you came for the cliffside glamour, the sea-soaked stillness, or the joy of doing absolutely nothing in style, one thing’s certain: the Ligurian Riviera always leaves the light on for you.